Walk from Katoomba to Kanangra Walls, Blue Mountains NSW.

Our plan was to walk in the Blue Mountains of NSW from Katoomba to Kanangra walls. Our walk had to be aborted at Mt Cloudmaker. It was in hot, humid and very wet . The area was dangerous in areas, had unmarked trails with grass and shrubbery and worsening visibility made navigation difficult. Local knowledge and choosing a cooler time of the year would assist greatly.

The settlers of this country had a tough time crossing the blue mountains, and even now may a walker has gone missing. I can see why, the density of trees and similarity of the terrain as well as lack of water make it all a trial.

Mike read about the walk in the Wild magazine ( Wild Magazine: Classic Blue Mountains Walks Wild Issue 60 (April 1996). also a later article after this walk Wild Issue 80 (April 2001). Page(s): 50-53.)

I would also suggest doing the traverse in the other direction from what we did, ie. from Kanangra Walls to Katoomba.

Many blog sites on the web relate that this is a fantastic walk, and I would agree for those who are technically compentent in all regards. With inclement weather, lack of fitness or injury, the opinion can be very different. The walk is tough and requires carrying lots of water over the hardest bits, as there are none on the ridge traverses. With the lack of track markers, dense shrub and varying mountainous terrain, it would be so easy to get lost here and the chances of getting back on track slim.

Track Notes:

Map reference: Gangerang Wild Dog Mountains, Lower Kowmung, Nth Thurat in the Greater Blue Mountains of NSW. Compiled by Myles J. Dunphy 10th edition 1979. Procurable from The Colong Foundation 18 Argyle St Sydney. The map we were navigating by was a rather old print, a bit different to the coloured ones we are normally accustomed to, but great in regard to the amount of hand markup and it was perhaps clearer once you get used to the single black colour.

The person who named the features must of been dog orientated with names like Howling Dog, Little Dingo Hill, Brindle Pup, Brown Dog, Spotted Dog as well as tired or observant of nature with Mt Strongleg and Mt Cloudmaker.

Day 1

We checked in at the local police station and asked for any local knowledge. We discovered that what we had was more than the locals knew, and that was not much. Mike called a taxi driver we met last night who was willing to take us to the gate of the fire trail. By the time all the preliminaries were done we managed to leave at 11:00am.

We were dropped off at the top of Narrow Neck and walked along the fire trail for some time, walking along the trail was somewhat monotonous, until we reached Tarro's Ladder. At which we called a lunch break - late at 3pm.

Tarro's Ladder is a rather frightening descent down an iron spiked cliff face. Fortunately a few weeks before we were climbing at the indoor rock climbing centres in Melbourne, but they are nothing compared to the fear combat that runs through you when you are clambering down an outdoor cliff face trusting your life on some steel stirrups. There was supposed to be an alternative way down but we could not locate it.

The trail thereafter was relatively easy going to our first camp site at Mobb's soak. We were somewhat tired after the long day arriving at 7:00pm.

Day 2

Mobb's soak is a pleasant site. Though there are plenty of insects to contend with. The ground and grass very wet, matching the place's surname Soak. We put to work our newly purchased water pumps and filled up all the water bottles.

Walk from Mobb's Soak was easy and enjoyable until we got to Yellow Dog Mountain. The Descent was steep, paying toll on our knees and feet. Some pleasant pine forest on the way provided reprieve with the needles providing a bouncy soft cushion to walk on. But the descent was rocky and soon diminished any comforts.

The lyrebirds were active with their raucous sounds, and nature provided interesting things to look at such as some large termite mounds.

Crossed Cox's river and walked along its banks. We were puzzled somewhat as to the whereabouts of the expected clearing and hut location. Eventually we found the clearing after 'wading' through high grass and scotch thistle. The clearing was pleasant and the hut locked up with a big impersonal sign stating its private ownership since 1852.p

Ray and I went for a soak in Kanangra Creek and filled the water bottles. The water was clear and pleasantly cool. We then walked along the banks of the creek to determine if there is a viable route. We felt that the route would be arduous and decided that the way is to go back. Our plan was to hit Mt Strongleg in the morning at 8:00am with no packs to do a day trip up Mt Cloudmaker.

Day 3

We decide to make for Mt Cloudmaker today without backpacks as a day trip. Woke at 7:00am and reluctantly prepared in a shower. 8:00am we broke from camp. The first issue was to ford Kanangra Creek. Ray kindly brought and lent his towel round. We left the towel in the trees to dry and as a marker for the way back.

Mt Strongleg: how apt a name. One continuous unrelenting ascent. We were glad not to have our packs. Navigation was tricky with numerous tracks, but the goal seemed to be common. We elected to stay left as they seemed less steep. The peak of Mt Strongleg was not reached as the tracks skirted round the final mound to the top and our goal was to stay at the contour level that gave us the next route to Kullieatha Peak.

The ridge traverse was made difficult with boulders and rocks strewn everywhere. Fast walking ran the risk of ankle and knee damage so we walked carefully. There were lots of blackboy grass trees up here. The tracks were hidden due to the rocks and leaf mulch; imagination and a good eye for small detail plus the map guided us. Every now and then a termite mound with cairns or a yellow marker or campsite would provide confirmation.

Off the mountain to Moorilla Gap the pace accelerated as the tracks improved. Moorilla Maloo is a self contained mini mountain or tor. We almost walked past it, if it wasn't for Mike's astute reasoning that the track was diving to the right. More care needed here !

Now we were on our way to Dex Creek, but it wasn't the amble we were hoping for. Scrub and plenty of it, at times over our heads. We can see why in some of our notes some could not find the camp. At Dex's camp we were glad we didn't have to struggle laden with our packs to camp here. The site was quite rocky , only the upper part of the camp being suitable for our tents.

We had lunch at the camp as it was 1pm. We were bedraggled: shots of rain dumped on us intermittently along the way, all morning we suffered high humidity and this section was full of wet shrubbery. I wanted to go back, but the goal of Mt Cloudmaker beckoned and over-rode sensible reason.

We pressed on after lunch and found that Mt Cloudmaker, like Mt Strongleg was an entirely apt name. All we saw was cloud, and no view was available to give us a feeling of satisfaction of having reached our goal.

We signed the book on top of Mt Cloudmaker, took photos and we reflected on the names of the various features and how appropriate names such as cloudmaker and strongleg were. Here we are on top of the mountain surrounded by cloud. Even without the clouds, the vegetation provides a restricted viewing. From the map we were hoping for a vista of the ‘Walls’ and imagined that this place would be in a grandstand position: maybe a further traverse to Mt Stormbreaker, but we had no gas left in the tank for further exploration.

It was time to return. We had little time left for further dalliance as it was now 2pm, 6 hours to get here and we will scrape it in to arrive back before nightfall.

We refilled our bottles at Dex Creek Camp, making sure to fill at the upper part of the camp. The wade through the scrub was easier on the return walk as we followed the crushed tracks we made earlier.

Throughout the return it seemed easier, maybe because of urgency or the light the tracks seemed more apparent. It wasn’t all a race though, we took time to “smell the roses” just before Mt Moorilla ascent, as there was a viewing point of some of cliffs to the north east.

After the descent of the western divide and the ascent of Mt Moorilla Maloo the trails opened out and our pace increased, to be slowed down again at the rocky ridges of Mt Amarina and Mt Kulletha, where again we concentrated on avoiding injury.

The descent of Mt Strongleg was taken on the western flank of the ridge that is used to access the mountain from the north ie it leads directly to the camp at Kanangra Clearing. This route was steeper than the eastern ascent this morning and friable, causing slips. It was advantageous to us however as we gained a lot of time.

Whew ! We made it, before dark, what a huge effort. A refreshing wash in the creek and chocolate soy pudding for recovery and we felt on top of the world.

Day 4

Who in their right mind washes their clothes with impending rain ? I did. Overnight nothing dried due to the high humidity and rainfall. The horseman’s shed provided shelter, but no drying breeze. We were camped at Konanoaroo Clearing, a privately owned 40 acre plot staked as a claim in 1852, owned by the Mountain and River Horse Rider Association. It does not seem to be used by horses these days, maybe the National Parks prevents access.

We were careful not to exit via the field of stinging nettles and scotch thistles this time, and elected to walk directly to the Cox’s River to find out if there was an alternative route. Our way was impeded by tall grasses and pine saplings, but eventually we reached Kanangra Creek and walked towards its mouth. As we were doing so, Ray walked along the bank closely and I moved up into the clearing instead of fighting the trees.

Our first snake – a large black one, was entrapped between us. Thankfully it elected to remain stationary, giving us enough time to take a picture and move away.

The exit was tricky, but we managed to locate a place on Kanangra Creek where it was shallow enough to walk across without getting our feet wet, a quick hopping run at we were across.

The crossing of Cox’s river was a different story, requiring removal of our boots. The smooth river pebbles took a bit of concentration, but the traverse was not hazardous.

The ascent of Yellow Pup Ridge was hard work, but only for about an hour. The track then zigzagged, making the climb easier. It took a total of 2 hours to get to the top of Mt Yellow Dog

We arrived at camp at 3:30pm just in time. As soon as our tents were pitched the heavens opened. At Mobb’s Soak we got soaked. The site was quite extensive and infested with leeches. The leeches got into our boots and into areas to discrete to talk about. Blood was pouring from the back of my knees, further up and even under my armpits. For amusement we spent the evening playing spot the leech and eliminating them.

Day 5

It was still raining, but settled enough to allow us to pack our gear. Despite all the fluid we drank last night and in the morning, none of us needed to ‘go’, indicating how dehydrated we were from yesterday’s efforts.

We said good bye to the leeches, but they did not want us to go......

On the way back we were treated to dance from three lyrebirds. One of them was curious and came to check us out, staying at a respectful distance.

When we arrived at Medlow Gap, we removed more leeches from underneath our gaiters. Mike was attacked mercilessly as he had shorts on. The climb up Tarro’s Ladder was intimidating for me, but not as bad as going down. However, Mike kindly offered to take my pack up. (we lowered them going down)

The exit out of the fire trail took around 2 1/2 hours, but went quickly and the taxi we called arrived promptly to take us back to the YHA.

Good to feel the warmth of a hot shower, and would you believe it, I found four more leeches . Dinner and a movie at the Edge cinema and life was returned to normality.

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Adventures in 2001